Artisan Enhancements FAQs

Here you will find a list of the most frequently asked questions and general tips for troubleshooting. You may also read the Tip Sheets under Artisan Enhancements Co from the Main Menu. If you are not able to find an answer to the question, then please feel free to contact us.

 can also be used as a clear barrier layer BEFORE applying tinted and colored waxes. Apply 1 thin coat of  clear topcoat or sealer BEFORE applying waxes. Allow clear topcoat or sealer to dry for minimum of 24 hours before applying waxes. (DIY FINISHES)

We do not typically recommend applying clear topcoats or sealers over  OVER waxed finishes. With waxed surfaces there are a lot of variables – thickness of wax, type of wax, solvents used in wax formula, number of layers of wax, dry time between layers, how much the wax was buffed, and cure time of wax. All of these variables make layering another product over wax potentially problematic. For most wax products, an additional sealer is not required over the layer of wax. In most circumstances, if using wax to seal, wax should be the final layer to seal chalk painted surfaces.

CRACKLE TEXT - (Also Read the Tip Sheet)

Yes. Seal with a clear sealer or topcoat or wax.
Note: If creating a multi layered finish - adding more layers of paint, plaster, glaze, or a color wash - once crackle layer of paint is dry, a thin layer topcoat may be needed to protect the crackle paint/plaster layer from reopening with moisture.
No. Crackle Tex is not a varnish product. Crackle Tex is a crackle medium that is sandwiched between a base layer and a topcoat layer of either plaster or paint. A topcoat of paint or plaster must be applied for cracks to appear.
If your paint becomes sticky, gluey or gummy during the chipped crackle technique, one of the following reasons could be the cause:
  • Crackle Tex was not completely dry before applying paint. Make sure Crackle Tex is completely dry before applying topcoat of paint.
  • Paint was too wet when the chipping technique was started. Do not start chipping effect until small cracks begin to appear. The paint should be damp and moist but not wet. 
  • Excessive water was introduced either from the sponge/rag tool being used to create the chip effect. Always start with a dry sea sponge or rags, only lightly spritz them if the paint is being stubborn.

 For a basic application we do not recommend thinning Crackle Tex. However, for some applications (such as rolling on walls or over foil applications) a thinner medium may be desired. For thinning, we recommend no more than a 5% dilution of water. If using a diluted thinned concentration of Crackle Tex, additional coats of Crackle Tex most likely will be needed for full coverage. Allow each coat to dry before applying additional coats. We also recommend doing a sample piece using the diluted thinned concentration to know how many coats will be required to achieve the desired effect.

 is a thick bodied water-based crackle medium. Overtime, the resins in the crackle medium can settle to the bottom. When this occurs, liquid can rise to the top. Before beginning any project, it is important to always stir the product from the bottom up in the container. Making sure any potentially settled resins are reincorporated.
Note: After opening and exposure to air, Crackle Tex can become thicker over time due to some evaporation. Always make sure to close containers tightly after each use to maintain consistency.
If cracks do not appear after applying Crackle Tex, one of the following reasons could be the cause:
  • The surface below paint or Crackle Tex was not sealed or was raw. Porous surfaces like stone or raw wood are “thirsty”. These types of surfaces absorb too much of the crackle medium resulting in less pronounced or absent crackle effects. We recommend sealing thirsty surfaces with a clear sealer or topcoat prior to painting or applying Crackle Tex.
  • A topcoat of paint or plaster has not been applied over the dried layer of Crackle Tex. Crackle Tex is a crackle medium that is sandwiched between a base layer and a topcoat layer of either plaster or paint. A topcoat of paint or plaster must be applied for cracks to appear.
  • When applying the topcoat layer, the paint or plaster was applied too thin, too thick, or overworked. The best results are achieved with a medium load of paint or plaster – not too much but not too little. Once the paint or plaster is applied avoid over brushing and too much pressure which can lead to the covering of early appearing cracks.
  • The type of paint or plaster formula used as the topcoat contains either too much acrylic, pigment, or matting agent. Crackle Tex works best with mineral and chalk style ultra-flat (matte) water-based paints. Light and medium colors produce the more defined and pronounced crackle patterns. Crackle Tex works best with VP Antico and Fine Stone. Both plasters are more porous and matte when dry making them ideal to layer with Crackle Tex.
    Tools and application methods vary the type of cracks produced. Cracklet Tex can be applied with a brush or roller.
    For controlled crack patterns – Using a brush, apply Crackle Tex and paint layer in linear strokes. For irregular crack patterns- Using a brush, apply Crackle Tex and paint Layer in haphazard, cross hatching, strokes. For smaller irregular, “web-like”, crack patterns – Using a roller, apply Crackle Tex and paint using even linear strokes to avoid lap lines.
    Artisan Enhancements™ Crackle Tex is a thick bodied crackle medium. Developed to create crackle techniques and textures when layered with most water-based paints and plasters.
    Crackle Tex is a crackle medium that is sandwiched between a base layer and a topcoat layer of either plaster or paint.
    Crackle Tex works best with mineral and chalk style ultra-flat (matte) water-based paints. However, some paints contain a higher concentration of matting agent or acrylic resin. Both can change the end result of the crackle pattern. Cracks may appear but may not be as pronounced. Light and medium colors produce more defined and pronounced crackle patterns. Darker more saturated colors can occasionally be more difficult to crack due to higher concentrations of pigments. Cracks may appear but may not be as pronounced.

    Crackle Tex works best with VP Antico and Fine Stone Both plasters are more porous and matte when dry making them ideal to layer with Crackle Tex.
    What are the best surfaces for Crackle Tex application? Crackle Tex
    can be used to achieve chunky and chipped effects. Great for a variety of interior applications and surfaces such as: furniture, cabinetry, decorative arts, and walls. 
    Before any Crackle Tex application, surfaces should be free of cleaner residue, dust, dirt, and debris. Surfaces should be dry before Crackle Tex application.  If painting/staining/layering before Crackle Tex application, make sure the basecoat of paint/stain/layers are completely dry before application of Crackle Tex. For best results let surfaces dry overnight before Crackle Tex application.

    Note: Raw, stone, or untreated surfaces may need to be sealed with a clear topcoat to Crackle Tex application – These types of surfaces absorb too much of the crackle medium resulting in less pronounced or absent crackle effects.
    No. Crackle Tex is not a varnish product. Crackle Tex is a crackle medium that is sandwiched between a base layer and a topcoat layer of either plaster or paint. A topcoat of paint or plaster must be applied for cracks to appear.
    If your paint becomes sticky, gluey or gummy during the chipped crackle technique, one of the following reasons could be the cause:
    • Crackle Tex was not completely dry before applying paint. Make sure Crackle Tex is completely dry before applying topcoat of paint.
    • Paint was too wet when the chipping technique was started. Do not start chipping effect until small cracks begin to appear. The paint should be damp and moist but not wet. 
    • Excessive water was introduced either from the sponge/rag tool being used to create the chip effect. Always start with a dry sea sponge or rags, only lightly spritz them if the paint is being stubborn.

    PLASTERS - (Also Read the Tip Sheet)

    YES! All Artisan Enhancements™ Plasters come as a tintable base. Our plasters can be tinted with a variety of pigment sources including universal tint systems, water-based paints, and mineral pigments. When tinting we recommend starting with a mix of 3-part plaster to 1-part tint. Add more tint or pigment source as needed to achieve the desired color.

    YES! All Artisan Enhancements™ Plasters can be used to create relief or embossed stenciled techniques. To create a relief stencil, load a small amount of plaster to a roller, stencil brush, or edge of a Color Shaper/Palette Knife. Using desired tool, push the plaster through the stencil with light pressure. Lift the stencil to reveal a relief pattern!
    Our plasters can be applied with a variety of tools! Brushes, rollers, trowels, sponges, Color Shapers, and drywall knives are just some of the tools used to apply our plasters. Review the tip sheets.
    How do I keep my unused plaster from drying out once the container has been opened?  After opening and exposure to air, plasters can become thicker and dry out over time due to moisture evaporation. Always make sure to close containers tightly after each use to maintain consistency. You can optionally add a small amount (thin layer) of clean water over the used product to to create a "skin" or barrier to the air inside the container.
    Our plasters are thick bodied water-based mediums. Overtime, the plaster can settle. When this occurs, liquid can rise to the top.  Before beginning any project, it is important to always stir the product from the bottom up in the container. Making sure any potentially settled materials are reincorporated.
    can be burnished and polished once dry. To burnish VP Antico, using a fine grit sandpaper (400 - 1000 grit depending on level of polish desired) very lightly sand the plaster. Work in small circles until the level of sheen or polish is achieved. The higher grit sandpaper will produce a smoother higher polish. Wipe the surface with a slightly damp cloth to remove plaster dust from sanding before adding additional layers or sealer.
    SCUMBLE - (Also Read the Tip Sheet)

    Yes! Scumble can be tinted with a variety of pigment sources including universal tint systems, water-based paints, and mineral pigments. To tint Scumble: Start with a 3:1 ratio (3-part Scumble to 1-part tint/paint/pigment). Add tint source to Scumble glaze medium. Stir mixture thoroughly to combine. Test on a sample piece. 

    Yes! Scumble can be used as a slip coat for blended and dry-brush techniques. However (depending on the formula of the basecoat of paint), occasionally Scumble can re-wet and re-open painted layers with the reintroduction of moisture leading to muddy and inconsistent glaze applications. For best results, make sure the basecoat of paint is completely dry before the application of Scumble. If you’re nervous about the paint re-opening, seal the painted surface prior to the Scumble application. We always recommend doing a test piece of your Scumble technique to see how the basecoat responds.

    To use Scumble as a slip coat before paint application, apply a thin coat of Scumble to a dry pre-painted (basecoat) and sealed surface. While Scumble is still wet, apply paint over the Scumble layer. Use a brush or sea sponge to blend, soften, and manipulate the paint. 

     Yes. Once fully dry, we recommend sealing all Scumble applications with a sealer or topcoat. If the Scumble technique is left unsealed it can re-open and re-activate if exposed to moisture. Note: Wax maybe used over surfaces with Scumble Glazes. To add an additional layer of wax, first seal the surface with one thin coat of a clear topcoat. After 72 hours of dry-time, additional colored waxes can be layered over the Clear Topcoat sealed surface. Follow wax manufacturer’s instructions for wax applications and curing times.

    Scumble is a translucent water-based effect medium. Scumble was developed to be worked and manipulated into the surface. Due to the performance properties and application method, occasionally (depending on the formula of the basecoat of paint) Scumble can re-wet and re-open painted layers readily with the reintroduction of moisture leading to muddy and inconsistent glaze applications. For best results, if painting before application, make sure the basecoat of paint is completely dry before the application of Scumble. If you’re nervous about the paint re-opening, seal the painted surface with a clear topcoat or sealer prior to the Scumble application. We always recommend doing a test piece of your Scumble glaze to see how the basecoat and tinted glazes respond.

    Yes! Scumble can be used to extend open-times (to keep paint from drying out on larger surfaces) and as a leveler (to improve flow and help reduce brushstrokes) for water-based paints. Add 5% by volume Scumble to paint to extend. If using a Scumble + Paint mixture, allow the surface to dry overnight before recoating or sealing.

    Yes! Scumble can be tinted with a variety of pigment sources including universal tint systems, water-based paints, and mineral pigments. To tint Scumble: Start with a 3:1 ratio (3-part Scumble to 1-part tint/paint/pigment). Add tint source to Scumble glaze medium. Stir mixture thoroughly to combine. Test on a sample piece. 

     

     LEAF & FOIL SIZE & FOIL SHEETS - (Also Read the Tip Sheet)

    Scrubbing (polyester or nylon) bristle brushes work best with foils. Examples of these types of brushes: Toothbrushes (soft or medium), household hand scrubbing brush, or manicure brush (soft and flexible). Make sure bristles are not too stiff so the painted finish isn’t damaged. Wire or Steel scrubbies are not recommended.
    Typically, when the paint lifts from the surface while removing the foil layer or burnishing the foil, there is an issue with the actual basecoat of paint’s adhesion to the surface below the Leaf & Foil Size. If the paint doesn't fully stick to the surface, the pressure of rubbing and pulling during foil application can essentially peel off the paint. This most often occurs when the surface below the Size and the basecoat paint are glossy, lacquered, slick, or waxed. The best way to avoid the basecoat of paint lifting is to make sure the paint is fully hardened/cured to the surface before Leaf and Foil Size application or prime/sand any surface that may be a bit slick/glossy before applying the basecoat of paint.
    If you’re able to easily pull/peel up the foil from the surface: Lift the foil off the surface, re-exposing the Leaf and Foil Size layer. If you’re not able to easily pull/peel up the foil from the surface: Using a precision cutting tool like an Exacto knife or razor blade, find an edge of the foil and gently try to pry the foil from the Size. Rubbing Alcohol on a Q-tip may help soften the Size adhesive as a last resort. 

    Re-apply Size if needed and apply foil. Remember, foils should be applied shiny side (color) face up. 

    When pulling off the foil, some Size and paint may pull off due to the extra strength bonding of the Size medium. If sticky Size comes off or bubbles, patch the missing areas with more Size. If paint lifts, depending on the severity of the paint lift, some touch up paint maybe required. If areas are small: touch-up with paint and reapply Size. If paint needs to be removed and the entire surface repainted: To remove old Size and paint from the surface, use a chip brush dipped in rubbing alcohol to soften the Size adhesive. Next, sand off the Size and paint. Then repaint and reapply Size. Make sure the alcohol residue is completely evaporated and removed from the surface prior to repainting.

    Yes. Once Leaf and Foil Size has been applied to a surface it remains tacky indefinitely if not sealed. Seal metallic surfaces with clear topcoat or sealer. For dusted foils we recommend a “Matte” sheen of our sealers. For glossy foils we recommend a “Gloss” sheen for our sealers. If using traditional metal leaf, do a sample piece to determine the desired sheen.

    Note: Wax and Scumble glaze maybe used over foiled surfaces. To add an additional layer of wax or Scumble glaze, first seal the foiled surface with one thin topcoat. Allow the surface to cure a minimum of 72 hours before wax or Scumble application – for best results allow 1 week of a Clear Topcoat before wax or Scumble application. Be sure to follow full curing time with desired clear topcoat.

    Use hand sanitizer to remove “tackiness” from hands and fingers. Use rubbing alcohol to remove sizing from tools and stencils. After cleaning with rubbing alcohol rinse with warm water to remove any remaining alcohol residue.

    Morning Dewdrops Disclaimer - We offer DIY Paint and Finishes and Artisan Enhancements products.  We provide tips or answers to questions about these products when working in conjunction with each other. 

    We do not provide these tops or answer these questions pertaining to any other brands of paint topcoats, sealers, waxes or other finishing products.

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    Stay Creative, Terri